4.1.4

'12420'

'6'

'一杯美味的Espresso 烘焙技巧很重要'

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'咖啡知識,Espresso,咖啡百科,烘焙技巧'

'那麼我們該如何決定使用哪一種烘焙度來做espresso呢？espresso用豆到底能烘到多淺、多深而仍能有好的espresso表現呢？又要如何運用這些不同的烘焙風格來爲你的熟豆零售生意增添特色？請接下去看。 '

'152'

'1'

'咖啡沙龍網'

'9'

'/views-12420'

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'0'

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'2014-09-09 16:45:01'

'2014-09-09 16:45:01'

'12375'

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'<p>
	　　由混豆談起</p>
<p>
	　　當我們提到烘焙espresso用豆，實際上我們就是在講一門混豆的學問。各個不同產國的各種咖啡豆，其最高甜蜜點各在不同的烘焙點呈現，因此烘焙商們必須找出一個烘焙及混豆的平衡點，才能做出一杯好喝的espresso。這門學問首先要從烘焙度以及選豆開始，還有烘焙師父本身的味覺敏銳度，將這三要點發揮得好，就很有機會製造出口感均衡且風味宜人的espresso。當然，這其中是有許多主觀的味覺觀點，但就我個人多年來的經驗，在此可以提供各位一些建議。</p>
<p>
	　　使用北義式烘焙，其選豆過程是重點，你必須挑選在此烘焙度時酸度最低的咖啡豆，以我個人的北義式配方來說，我使用的巴西豆是從10支巴西中，選用最不酸的一支;但若再深一些，要烘中義式的配方，我大概就不太需要考慮酸度高低的問題，有大概50%的巴西豆都能符合這個需求;若要使用最深度的南義式烘焙，那麼每一支巴西都可以。總地來說，北義式配方必須使用風味較爲溫和的、酸度較低的arabica豆，最經典的配方就是Mocha-Java，結合葉門摩卡以及爪哇的arabica豆，不過還有另一個也很受歡迎且廣受使用的替代配方，就是依索比亞Harar加上蘇門答臘Mandheling。</p>
<p>
	　　中義式配方的選豆較具彈性，但你可能得選用幾支風格較強烈的豆子，如依索比亞Harar。而許多酸度高的豆子如哥斯大黎加以及肯亞，在中義式的烘焙度時，其甜蜜點達到最高峯。</p>
<p>
	　　南義式烘焙實在太深了，因此你必須使用風格非常強烈的配方，通常風味粗糙且強烈的非洲豆都很適合用做此途，如Burundi或是Harar。我個人認爲，當你進入了French Roast這麼深的烘焙度時，你在選豆上的彈性就很廣了，因爲在此時，絕大部分咖啡豆的特質都被烘掉了。</p>
<p>
	　　北義式烘焙</p>
<p>
	　　在相對較淺焙度的北義式烘焙來說﹝風行地大約在米蘭一帶﹞，這類配方製作出的是一杯充滿如砂糖水口感的espresso。我個人認爲，這類的配方是最能完美結合甜味以及烘焙核果風味的，但在萃取階段時卻最容易出問題。北義式的配方是最有潛力製作出滿是甜味的espresso的，不過在萃取時卻非常容易搞砸，厚實且帶甜味的乾香氣，意味著此時的風味是最爲複雜且脆弱的，碳化程度也是相對最低的。經過多年來的實作經驗，我發現北義式配方，其芳香物質經過了熱水作用，是最爲脆弱的，在萃取時若操作不當，就會產生「Jackyl and Hyde變化」，原本應該呈現帶甜氣味的espresso，有可能變得過酸/過苦或是澀口。</p>
<p>
	　　身爲一個烘焙零售商，當你使用了大多數這類較爲脆弱的配方，則在衝煮時就會面臨杯中表現穩定度不足的挑戰。由於北義式配方較缺乏烘焙風味襯底，因此若您的吧檯人員稍一不慎，衝煮出的espresso就會有易於察覺的缺陷，若與牛奶混合時更是明顯;當受到專家式的萃取，與牛奶相混合時就會把espresso裡濃濃的焦糖味突顯出來，對我而言，這種焦糖風味就是北義式配方應該出現的風格與特色。</p>
<p>
	　　由於北義式配方的咖啡豆受碳化的程度較低，因此其焦糖味及產區風味特性方面佔的比重較高，要在衝煮時保留這些豐富的特質是一項非常大的挑戰，尤其在衝煮水溫穩定度上更是重要，假使衝煮水溫上下變化太大﹝上下超過華氏四度﹞，則焦糖味是第一個會被犧牲掉的，接著便是乏味的淺黃色crema流出;若衝煮水溫較穩定的條件下﹝上下變化低於華氏二度﹞，則crema會呈現赭紅色。但有赭紅色crema並不代表焦糖風味在經過沖煮後仍能存活下來，即使是在很穩定的衝煮水溫之下，也是常會煮出偏酸的espresso，這時就可能是水溫偏低了﹝海拔在海平面時，理想的衝煮水溫是華氏204度，測量點是靠近咖啡餅附近﹞。在我店裡的可控溫機臺上，我發現越甜的espresso，它們的crema越是容易散掉。</p>
<p>
	　　北義式配方對於專業的衝煮人員來說還有許多其他方面的挑戰，舉例來說，機臺必須非常仔細地清理，因爲北義式配方的豆子特別容易吸附咖啡機臺上的異味，若機臺清理不夠確實，衝煮出來的espresso就會出現令人不舒服的臭苦味，那種味道介於燒焦的土司以及運動後的臭襪子之間。此外，必須確實以整顆原豆的型態來儲存，不時地翻轉混合之。咖啡熟豆的儲存就像存放紅酒一樣，要存放在密封且不透光的容器中，儲存溫度在華氏55度左右。以純arabica豆的配方來說，豆子必須在烘焙後3-10天內使用完，此時espresso的crema狀態是最完整的;若配方中有使用高比例的robusta，則crema的高峯期可能會延長一些，但必須注意，robusta豆雖然可以提供非常厚實的crema，但對於甜度可以說是完全沒有幫助，在北義式的烘焙度下，絕大多數的robusta豆表現出的都是澀味或是木質味，而好的arabica豆則是表現出甜味。</p>
<p>
	　　吧檯人員必須非常熟練，才能正確地衝煮北義式的配方，在衝煮或填壓時若有任何差錯，造成&ldquo;通道&rdquo;效應時，水流快速地通過此一裂縫，甜味分子受到破壞，流到杯中的整個芳香化合物成分失衡，最後整杯espresso被澀味佔據。另外吧檯人員也必須留意不要把espresso放太久，衝煮好的espresso必須儘快與牛奶調合，在做卡布其諾時，espresso的甜味分子是形成泡沫的其中一項重要成分，但這成分很快便會消退，另外陶瓷杯也必須預熱過，用來保存espresso結構。</p>
<p>
	　　要弄出這誘人的甜味，其中一個關鍵就是流速。要處理這個變數，吧檯手必須先仔細調整好研磨刻度，流速太快的喝起來就會偏酸且澀，流速太慢的喝起來就偏焦苦。我們店裡的目標是以25秒萃取爲準，同時流下的狀態必須像是一條&ldquo;老鼠尾巴&rdquo;。</p>
<p>
	　　要煮好一杯北義式的espresso可能得花上許多年來鑽研，但如果你最後大成了，而且你的店正好開在一個較多客人喜歡這種味道的社區，你的生意可能會比同社區的其他熟豆零售商好很多。不過如果你的目標是要開任何一種型態的連鎖店，千萬不要選用這種北義式的烘焙，練習衝煮並嘗試失敗的次數會非常可觀，你倒不如選用較深烘焙的配方，顧客還比較能接受。北義式的配方比較適合讓有志於工匠級數的烘焙零售商來販賣，一個有天份、對咖啡又有很大熱情的咖啡愛好者，對於這種北義式配方衝煮成功的espresso會非常著迷，一旦你成功地掌握衝煮北義配方的要點，那麼你在同行中幾乎是無可匹敵的。</p>
<p>
	　　中義式烘焙</p>
<p>
	　　當我們烘得再深一些，更多的糖份開始被碳化，或是燒掉，此時就稱爲中義式的烘焙，通常在弗羅倫斯一帶流行這種烘焙度的espresso。這類的配方製造出稍微深色的豆子，風味走向較偏苦的點。但這樣的烘焙度還不夠深到足以將所有的產區風味特性燒掉，中義式的配方主要是另一類型的平衡，就是苦味-剩下的糖分-產區風味特性三者的結合。中義式的espresso中多多少少會有一絲絲的煙燻味餘韻。</p>
<p>
	　　以不太穩定的衝煮水溫來萃取中義式的配方﹝市面上大多數的espresso機器幾乎都是水溫變化上下超過華氏六度的﹞，中義式配方的espresso仍能有穩定的表現，因此這種類型的配方是最適合一般烘焙零售商的，當然，也適合高竿的烘焙者來販賣。中義式的配方，優勢在於萬一吧檯人員稍有疏忽，流下來的espresso量超過標準，此時中義式配方的咖啡仍然不會出現偏酸、質感薄，或是澀口的缺陷，只會較北義式的配方豆缺少一些甜度﹝中義式配方即使是精心衝煮，甜度也不會比精心衝煮的北義式配方espresso還好﹞。中義式配方中由於受碳化的程度稍微高了一些，而碳本身是一個化學性穩定的成分，因此不論使用何種級數的機臺來衝煮這類配方，或是衝煮時小不小心，都無所謂，反正杯中都一定會出現因碳化而產生的苦味。</p>
<p>
	　　義大利咖啡的烘焙深度越往南走越深，這是有其原因的。有個假設的理論是，由於氣候的不同，造成居民對於香料使用量的多寡，以及其對居民口感偏好產生影響。從古早時代起，偏北方的居民，由於平均的氣溫較低，便於保存食物及肉品;反觀南部的天氣較炎熱，居民必須倚賴大量的香料來保存食物。許多人類學家相信這對於各地區居民的口感偏好有一定的影響，也可說明爲什麼南方人比較喜歡味道較密集的食物及飲料。而這個理論套用到咖啡之上，就說明了爲什麼偏南方的咖啡口味苦味較重。當然，這都只是理論，在美國這個多元化的社會中，是不太能套用這些理論的。不過若是你的客戶羣大多同屬南方人族羣，也許你會發現他們較偏好較深度烘焙的咖啡口味。</p>
<p>
	　　南義式烘焙</p>
<p>
	　　南義式烘焙是espresso豆中最深的一個烘焙階段，在這類的espresso中，苦味/碳味是主要的風味，蓋過大多數的甜味及產區風味特性，在南義的拿坡里是代表地區，在這裡你可以找到世界上最深度烘焙的espresso，僅保留少許的甜味及產區風味特性。如果你烘再深下去，剩下的大概只有碳味及苦味了。由於這種深度下的espresso苦味挺強的，會蓋掉大部分的甜味，不過此時的風味持續性是最高的，也使得衝煮上的容錯率提高，以制式化的訓練及機臺，加上一位專業吧檯訓練師，就可以將這類的espresso搞定，南義式的烘焙豆很適合在小型espresso bar或是小規模連鎖咖啡店使用，使用任一臺營業級機臺都可以衝煮出持續力強的一杯espresso。</p>
<p>
	　　當我造訪拿坡里時，我親口嚐了這裡的espresso，我看到那兒的吧檯手總是把剛剛擠好的半盎司espresso連杯浸在熱水中保存著，義大利這邊的人都會加一搓砂糖，快速的攪一攪就吞下肚。我推測到一個結論：南義式烘焙的espresso可能必須以極短的時間來萃取﹝ristretto﹞，因爲在咖啡豆中的糖分較少了，加上一直流傳到今的傳統就是要擠較少的劑量，如此才能讓杯中的糖分與苦味達到平衡。有許多人認爲這種烘焙法，加上在拿坡里地區的這種衝煮方式，是全世界最完美的搭配，但這種搭配可能在美國不太會流行，因爲美國人比較喜歡喝大杯又不苦的咖啡!</p>
<p>
	　　大企業的選擇 vs. 小型零售商的出路</p>
<p>
	　　要經營一家成功的聯營食品店，其祕訣就在於提供穩定品質的商品，不論在哪家分店，買到的產品品質都必須很固定。這個祕訣拿到咖啡零售業來講亦然，當烘焙深度越來越深，咖啡豆裡的糖分碳化程度變高，我們得到了一批French Roast的咖啡豆，爲什麼會叫French Roast?這是因爲這類咖啡豆一經萃取之後，便加入一大碗的牛奶中，當作法國人的早餐飲用。French Roast是大多數企業級的烘焙零售店最常選擇的烘焙度，只要加入足夠的牛奶與甜味劑，這類比南義式烘焙還深的豆子衝煮出來的飲料味道會有點像煙燻牡蠣﹝不全然是令人完全無法接受的味道﹞，且在大多數的市場來說，許多客人都會認爲這樣的咖啡是一杯很棒的&ldquo;強烈口感&rdquo;型咖啡。</p>
<p>
	　　爲什麼企業級的烘焙商傾向選擇French Roast呢?理由很簡單：要得到一杯很穩定品質的飲料不需要花太多心思。在這種深度的咖啡豆，其產區風味特性、糖分及酸質都在烘焙機中被燒掉了，因此也不需花太多心力去挑選咖啡豆，反正最後喝起來的味道都是一樣的，此外，新鮮度也不需考量在內了，因爲碳是不會變不新鮮的!</p>
<p>
	　　我並不是在藐視大型連鎖店的espresso品質，我是要試著解釋在這種情況之下，小型的烘焙零售商有多大的競爭優勢，在這個行業裡，要生存下來，就必須要讓自己的店有自己獨特的風格，espresso也要有自己的特色，這些就是能讓小型零售店得以存活的要件，因爲這些都是需要高度技術的。</p>
<p>
	　　只有花費許多時間與心力來改進espresso品質的人，才能禁得起時間的考驗，在今日的精品咖啡市場繼續生存，如果你能以這爲目標前進，你就是一位咖啡文化的推行者：融合美學、深度，以及技術的食品藝術!</p>
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'咖啡知識,Espresso,咖啡百科,烘焙技巧'

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'1410252301'

'1410252301'

'一杯美味的Espresso 烘焙技巧很重要_咖啡技術_咖啡知識_中國咖啡網'

'咖啡知識,Espresso,咖啡百科,烘焙技巧'

'那麼我們該如何決定使用哪一種烘焙度來做espresso呢？espresso用豆到底能烘到多淺、多深而仍能有好的espresso表現呢？又要如何運用這些不同的烘焙風格來爲你的熟豆零售生意增添特色？請接下去看。'

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