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“咖啡回家了。”</div>
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雀巢(Nestle SA)大中華區農業服務總監諸葛耀(Juerg Zaugg)拿着一杯多趣酷思(Dolce Gusto)雲南限量版意式濃縮咖啡,在雲南省西雙版納傣族自治州普文鎮山區的一個咖啡農場,與身邊的當地咖啡農打趣。</div>
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今年九月,雲南當地咖啡豆出品的限量版多趣酷思膠囊咖啡正式進入中國市場。</div>
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2015年,全球最大的食品生產商雀巢在雲南採購了超過1.2萬噸咖啡豆,其中來自7家供應商的80噸精選咖啡豆出口到雀巢位於歐亞大陸另一端的西班牙的工廠,精製成多趣酷思雲南限量版單品膠囊意式濃縮咖啡,在全球70餘個國家銷售。</div>
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普文鎮海拔超過1000米,距離普洱市的“雀巢咖啡中心”有超過1小時車程。當地的雀巢員工爲滇南這片咖啡產地起了一個頗具浪漫色彩的名字,“雲中咖啡”。</div>
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雲南是中國爲數不多適合種植咖啡的地區。這裏靠近北迴歸線,是理論上咖啡種植的北界,多山的地貌和充沛的降水爲咖啡種植提供了良好的條件。百餘年前,一些外國傳教士將咖啡豆帶到雲南西部與南部山區種植。改革開放之後,仍有一些零星的農場在種植咖啡,不過由於國內尚未形成咖啡消費市場,當時雲南咖啡產量不高,品質也差強人意。</div>
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1980年代,麥斯威爾(Maxwell)和雀巢先後進入中國市場,他們的速溶咖啡爲中國帶來第一次咖啡啓蒙。1988年,雀巢開始在雲南省採購咖啡原豆。“那一年雀巢在雲南的採購總量只有86噸,勉強裝滿4個貨櫃。”雀巢中國咖啡農藝服務部經理孔贊龍(Gonzalo Contreras)告訴界面新聞記者。</div>
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孔贊龍來自墨西哥,是雀巢派駐雲南的第六代外國專家,爲當地的咖啡農提供技術指導和培訓。今年3月,雀巢咖啡中心在雲南省普洱市落成。雀巢也定期派工作人員下鄉,爲咖啡農提供育種、栽培、加工和防治病蟲害等領域的技術指導,幫助其供應商通過雨林聯盟(Rainforest Alliance)和4C協會等國際可持續發展組織的認證標準。</div>
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目前雲南種植最廣的卡蒂姆(catimor)咖啡豆,是一種小粒種阿拉比卡咖啡豆,除了爲雀巢在廣東和山東的兩家固體飲料工廠提供原料之外,超過八成出口到海外,作爲拼配咖啡的原料或製成單品咖啡。雀巢也不遺餘力地試圖打造“雲南咖啡”這一品牌,除了剛剛上市的多趣酷思限量版膠囊咖啡,雀巢此前也多次推出過雲南主題的包裝禮盒。</div>
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目前,中國咖啡豆總產量排在世界第11位,超過墨西哥、尼加拉瓜、哥斯達黎加、科特迪瓦等中北美洲和非洲國家,其中雲南咖啡產量佔中國總產量的九成以上。雲南咖啡原豆的每公頃產量可以達到2.5噸,爲世界領先水平。在巴西等主要產區遭遇乾旱或疾病威脅時,雲南出產的咖啡可以成爲咖啡商尋找另外的供應地時的選擇。</div>
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隨着近年來巴西咖啡豆的減產,越來越多的外貿商開始頻繁造訪雲南,尋求與當地供應商合作。2010年開始,星巴克(Starbucks Corp.)開始在雲南建設農場,試圖進一步控制上游原料產地。總部位於瑞士的貿易公司伊卡姆(Ecom agroindustrial corp.ltd)、沃爾咖啡(Volcafe)和法國貿易公司路易達孚(Louis Dreyfus)均在雲南設立了採購點。</div>
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儘管雀巢仍然是當地最大的採購商,採購量超過雲南產區的10%,但越來越喧囂的咖啡貿易市場讓在這裏深耕了超過20年的雀巢有些緊張。目前中國人均消費4到6杯咖啡,仍具有巨大市場潛力,但傳統的速溶咖啡品類似乎已經難以滿足消費者日益挑剔的口味——似乎更多一線城市的消費者,已經習慣去咖啡館買上一杯現磨咖啡。英敏特(Mintel)諮詢公司的報告顯示,過去5年,速溶咖啡的市場份額從2009年的80.7%降至2014年的71.8%,並且還會繼續下滑,預計到2019年速溶咖啡的市場份額會降至66%。</div>
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2015年初,雀巢在東莞工廠銷燬了超過100噸速溶咖啡。儘管雀巢澄清只是正常的包裝更新,銷燬臨期庫存產品,但行業中仍有不少“雀巢咖啡是否風光不再”的質疑。上月,另一個在中國知名度頗高的速溶咖啡品牌麥斯威爾確認其廣州工廠即將停產,大中華地區市場的產品將由泰國曼谷生產基地供應。</div>
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多年來牢牢把持中國速溶咖啡市場的雀巢自然明白,一招鮮喫天下的好日子已經過去了。儘管雀巢表示速溶咖啡品類仍保持着積極增長勢頭,但它也開始嘗試引進更多咖啡產品,希望創新產品可以進一步驅動銷售增長。</div>
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多趣酷思是雀巢與意大利家電企業德龍(De’Longhi)合作推出的一款膠囊咖啡機,2014年進入中國市場,目前有6款不同規格造型的機型在售。與雀巢此前的高端品牌Nespresso膠囊咖啡機相比,多趣酷思更加平價,每粒膠囊售價在3到5元之間。多趣酷思的機器和膠囊目前均由海外進口。</div>
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即飲咖啡(ready-to-drink coffee,RTD)業務也是雀巢新的方向。根據歐睿諮詢(Euromonitor)的統計,2015年中國即飲咖啡零售渠道銷售額達到26.45億美元(約合179.1億元人民幣),是2010年市場規模的近10倍,近五年的年複合增長率達到23.4%。</div>
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即飲咖啡市場的競爭,看起來要比速溶咖啡更加激烈。統一、星巴克、可口可樂、華潤麒麟、三得利、娃哈哈等主要飲料企業,都希望在這一高增速市場分一杯羹。雀巢更大的優勢在其品牌和渠道,通過此前收購的銀鷺等本土企業發達的銷售網絡,罐裝的雀巢即飲咖啡率先在三四線中小城市佔據了貨架,在市場競爭中暫時佔據先手。</div>
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根據雀巢集團本月公佈的今年前三季度的財務狀況,1-9個月錄得3.3%的有機增長率,總銷售額爲655億瑞郎(約合4464.5億元人民幣),並將全年有機銷售增長目標由4.2%下調至3.5%。<img alt="" src="/uploads/allimg/161028/8-16102Q00123Y7.jpg" style="width: 650px; height: 366px;" /></div>
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'seo' =>
array (
'list_title' => '[第{page}頁{join}]{catpname}{join}{modname}{join}{SITE_NAME}',
'list_keywords' => '',
'list_description' => '',
),
'template' =>
array (
'pagesize' => 20,
'mpagesize' => 20,
'page' => 'page.html',
'list' => 'list.html',
'category' => 'category.html',
'search' => 'search.html',
'show' => 'show.html',
),
'cat_field' => '',
'module_field' => '',
'html' => 0,
),
'displayorder' => '0',
'acount' => '40',
'namerule' => '{typedir}/{Y}{M}{D}{aid}.html',
'namerule2' => '{typedir}/list_{tid}_{page}.html',
'mid' => 'article',
'pcatpost' => 1,
'topid' => '1',
'domain' => '',
'catids' =>
array (
0 => '319',
),
'is_post' => 1,
'mobile_domain' => '',
'tid' => 1,
'url' => 'https://gafei.com/list-kafeibisaixinwen.html',
'total' => 40,
'field' =>
array (
),
),
320 =>
array (
'id' => '320',
'pid' => '2',
'pids' => '0,1,2',
'name' => '外國咖啡',
'dirname' => 'zixun/waiguokafeixinxi',
'pdirname' => 'kafeixinwen/zixun/',
'child' => 0,
'childids' => 320,
'thumb' => '',
'show' => '1',
'setting' =>
array (
'edit' => 1,
'disabled' => 0,
'getchild' => 1,
'linkurl' => '',
'urlrule' => 3,
'seo' =>
array (
'list_title' => '[第{page}頁{join}]{catpname}{join}{modname}{join}{SITE_NAME}',
'list_keywords' => '',
'list_description' => '',
),
'template' =>
array (
'pagesize' => 20,
'mpagesize' => 20,
'page' => 'page.html',
'list' => 'list.html',
'category' => 'category.html',
'search' => 'search.html',
'show' => 'show.html',
),
'cat_field' => '',
'module_field' => '',
'html' => 0,
),
'displayorder' => '0',
'acount' => '13',
'namerule' => '{typedir}/{Y}/{M}{D}/{aid}.html',
'namerule2' => '{typedir}/list_{tid}_{page}.html',
'mid' => 'article',
'pcatpost' => 1,
'topid' => '1',
'domain' => '',
'catids' =>
array (
0 => '320',
),
'is_post' => 1,
'mobile_domain' => '',
'tid' => 1,
'url' => 'https://gafei.com/list-zixun/waiguokafeixinxi.html',
'total' => 13,
'field' =>
array (
),
),
323 =>
array (
'id' => '323',
'pid' => '2',
'pids' => '0,1,2',
'name' => '7月資訊',
'dirname' => '7yuezixun',
'pdirname' => 'kafeixinwen/zixun/',
'child' => 0,
'childids' => 323,
'thumb' => '',
'show' => '1',
'setting' =>
array (
'edit' => 1,
'disabled' => 0,
'getchild' => 1,
'linkurl' => '',
'urlrule' => 3,
'seo' =>
array (
'list_title' => '[第{page}頁{join}]{catpname}{join}{modname}{join}{SITE_NAME}',
'list_keywords' => '',
'list_description' => '',
),
'template' =>
array (
'pagesize' => 20,
'mpagesize' => 20,
'page' => 'page.html',
'list' => 'list.html',
'category' => 'category.html',
'search' => 'search.html',
'show' => 'show.html',
),
'cat_field' => '',
'module_field' => '',
'html' => 0,
),
'displayorder' => '0',
'acount' => '1',
'namerule' => '{typedir}{Y}{M}{D}{aid}.html',
'namerule2' => '{typedir}/list_{tid}_{page}.html',
'mid' => 'article',
'pcatpost' => 1,
'topid' => '1',
'domain' => '',
'catids' =>
array (
0 => '323',
),
'is_post' => 1,
'mobile_domain' => '',
'tid' => 1,
'url' => 'https://gafei.com/list-7yuezixun.html',
'total' => 1,
'field' =>
array (
),
),
) |
urlrule |
'/views-83145-[page].html' |
fix_html_now_url |
'' |
my_web_url |
'https://bak.gafei.com/views-83145' |
get |
array (
's' => 'article',
'c' => 'show',
'id' => '83145',
'm' => 'index',
) |