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“天下武功唯快不破”,拉夏貝爾的網點擴張在“快”這方面可謂學到了精髓。</p>
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公司招股書顯示,截至2016年末,全國零售網點數已達到8907個,其中,除公司於2016年新推出的品牌Siastella目前擁有2家加盟門店外,公司其他零售網點均實現直營模式。</p>
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上述網點數量在國內女裝品牌當中已經是很大的規模。但即便如此,公司的募投項目仍然投向了網點建設,計劃3年新增3000個零售網點。</p>
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此外,《每日經濟新聞》記者注意到,拉夏貝爾也嘗試性地開始了多元化之路,比如投資眼鏡、咖啡等。那麼,這些項目會給公司帶來哪些變化?近日,記者就體驗了其中一個位於四川成都的項目。</p>
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<strong>重點建二三線及以下城市網點</strong></p>
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拉夏貝爾招股書顯示,公司擬公開發行不超過5477萬股A股普通股,募集資金將投入兩大項目:零售網絡擴展建設項目以及新零售信息系統建設項目,兩者擬投入資金共計16.41億元,其中前者佔了大頭,擬投入資金15.57億元。</p>
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拉夏貝爾方面稱,將以現有零售網絡爲基礎,在未來3年內利用募集資金新開設專櫃網點2094個,新開設專賣網點906個。新開設零售網點均以直營方式運營。通過項目的實施進一步擴大零售網絡,實現對空白區域的首次覆蓋以及重點區域的進一步滲透,提升公司品牌影響力,鞏固市場地位。</p>
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據瞭解,這3000個網點將重點投向二三線及以下城市:一線城市僅新增228家,二線城市新開891家、三線城市新開666家,其他城市新開1215家。項目完成後,三線及以下城市零售網點將新增1881個。</p>
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拉夏貝爾方面對《每日經濟新聞》記者表示,公司將進一步提升公司在三四線城市的佈局力度,提高在該市場的競爭能力。未來公司將在充分考慮商業地產的未來發展趨勢、自身經營管理能力等因素的基礎上推廣“大店模式”,通過大面積的體驗店快速提升品牌形象、豐富購物體驗和優化購物環境,增強公司核心競爭力。</p>
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項目完成後,拉夏貝爾將擁有近12000家門店,這是什麼概念?優衣庫的報告顯示,截至2017年2月底,優衣庫海外(日本之外)門店總數僅爲1029家。</p>
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<strong>快速擴張模式存風險</strong></p>
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不過,市場人士對拉夏貝爾這種快速擴張模式並不一致看好。</p>
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“前期跑馬圈地式擴張,將會給服裝企業帶來致命的打擊。”前瞻產業研究院高級研究員柯素芳向記者舉了美特斯邦威的例子。從1995年到2003年,美特斯邦威的專賣店曾遍佈全國各個大中小城市,擁有了近1000多家專賣店。到2012年美特斯邦威的門店數暴增至5000多家,期間營收及淨利潤也雙雙大漲。但後來由於全球快時尚品牌的打擊以及自身門店過多導致的一系列問題,美特斯邦威業績不斷下滑,3年內關閉了1000多家門店,淨利潤也從盈利變成虧損。</p>
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柯素芳認爲,通過這種外延式的擴張來提升業績的做法並不是長久之計,目前拉夏貝爾應該主要關注的是對現有店鋪進行梳理,而不是去考慮再增加店鋪。</p>
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上海良棲品牌管理有限公司總經理程偉雄也認爲,規模不是越大越好,“公司直營的特點決定了公司擴張渠道要投入龐大資金,同時需要成熟的管理團隊,以及強大的供應鏈等。如果在快速開店的同時,後續管控、支持系統、供應鏈配合程度、團隊發展等跟不上的話,對企業長遠發展是不利的。”</p>
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柯素芳建議,拉夏貝爾應加大線上投入,“2016年拉夏貝爾的電商渠道成爲一大亮點,在線平臺的銷售收入達到10.03億元,同比增長70.41%。拉夏貝爾未來更應該加大線上投入,再結合公司的線下優勢,從而帶動業績健康增長。”</p>
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<strong>多項投資收效甚微</strong></p>
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如今,拉夏貝爾旗下已經有十幾個服裝品牌。而在不斷擴充新品牌的同時,拉夏貝爾的對外投資項目也在不斷增加。</p>
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2015年初,拉夏貝爾斥資2億元,持有電商品牌“七格格”54.05%的股權。當時拉夏貝爾的高管表示,七格格專注網絡服裝經營多年,擁有強大的在線運營能力及行之有效的粉絲羣營銷模式,雙方合作有望大大提升拉夏貝爾的在線運營能力,帶動集團品牌的在線市場份額增長。</p>
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的確,在隨後的2016年,拉夏貝爾的線上銷售有了很大起色,不過七格格本身的銷售額卻萎縮了。資料顯示,七格格2015年實現營收278.41萬元,淨利潤爲負46.37萬元;而2016年淨利潤轉正爲12.8萬元,但營業收入反而不到前一年的一半,僅有105.25萬元。</p>
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此外,2015年秋公司新推出了中國本土快時尚品牌US(UlifeStyle),並迅速鋪開,2016年末網點數已有191家,營業收入達到1.91億元,但當年淨利潤仍爲負4806萬元。</p>
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就在一個多月前,拉夏貝爾再次出手,不到千萬元小額投資了“多啦衣夢”。後者是一家女性服裝租賃電商平臺。拉夏貝爾公告稱,此舉將有助公司受惠多啦衣夢的發展、參與服裝業內一項可能的新機遇及嶄新商業模式,並利用多啦衣夢綜合網上租賃平臺的後續發展,帶動公司的未來增長。</p>
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<strong>多元化面臨業績下滑挑戰</strong></p>
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不僅如此,拉夏貝爾還涉足了一些與服裝不相關的行業,例如眼鏡、咖啡。</p>
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在參股互聯網眼鏡品牌Inmix的公告中,公司表示,投資將有助公司通過Inmix品牌及北京明通的資源,進軍高毛利率的眼鏡市場,豐富產品組合,此外也可使用自身零售渠道助力Inmix品牌的發展。</p>
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而在投資TNPI(擁有在韓國、中國營運並管理意大利咖啡品牌Segafredo Café的特許經營權)時拉夏貝爾稱,投資爲公司與TNPI的未來合作奠定基礎,包括在零售店內開設並營運Segafredo Café,以增進客戶的購物體驗。</p>
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近日,《每日經濟新聞》記者進店體驗了下Segafredo Café的環境,這家開在成都的店位於拉夏貝爾某集合店的三樓,店內光線柔和,色彩沉靜,佈局寬敞,落地窗旁的沙發式座椅舒適。正逢工作日中午,記者是店內唯一的顧客,一位咖啡師獨自坐在吧檯內。從價格表上來看,一杯16orz的拿鐵售價35元,比星巴克高2元。<img alt="" src="/uploads/allimg/170621/3-1F621104004F0.jpg" style="border: none; max-width: 100%; display: block; margin: 0px auto 30px; width: 630px; height: 840px;" /></p>
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位於四川成都的拉夏貝爾某集合店三樓的Segafredo Café 每經記者 賈麗娟 攝</p>
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值得一提的是,從資料上看,TNPI去年仍處於虧損狀態,截至2016年末,營業收入257.89萬美元,淨利潤爲負543.74萬美元。</p>
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柯素芳表示,拉夏貝爾的多元化思路是值得借鑑的,今後一個時期,擴充業態、增加消費者停留時間和消費理由是主流發展趨勢,而且也不僅限於咖啡店這類業態,可能後期還會加入雜貨、家居、藥妝等,把目標消費羣體留在店裏。不過,如何將咖啡店與服裝店兩種業態有效融合纔是關鍵。</p>
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柯素芳也同時提醒,在多元化發展的過程中,解決當前存在的問題纔是首要的。2016年拉夏貝爾的淨利潤下滑情況已出現,而面對新增店面投資成本大、成熟店面同店銷售增速下降的情況,其淨利潤下降的情況或許會持續。因此,如何淘汰效益較差的門店並對整體門店進行升級,是拉夏貝爾未來面臨的挑戰之一。</p>
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